Quote of the day: “I went to the museum where they had all the heads and arms from the statues that are in all the other museums.” – Steven Wright
Museums are strange places. I went to the SFMOMA last weekend with my parents to see the new Matisse exhibit (it focused on his sculpture as opposed to his paintings). Overall, the experience got me thinking (more b/c it was so much the same as opposed to so much different from my usual museum trip).
I don’t know if I’m alone here, but museums really try my patience. I feel like I have to sort through so much (it’s not crap, it’s great) that I end up being the personification of efficiency when I hit a museum. I move through each room pretty quickly, hovering only on the things I really dig. I can push through a major museum (and I mean major here) in about 90 minutes. It’s good for me, but… if I’m w/others (as I was this weekend) it can drive me nuts. I worked through the 2nd floor modern art exhibit in about 30 minutes. When I turned to find my parents, they were no where in sight. I went back one room, then two, then further still to three, four, etc. It wasn’t until I traveled back in time 7 rooms before I found them… moseying from one painting to the next. I politely saddled up to Mom and eased her forward to the next room. There was no convincing her. She needed the extra time. Giving up, I parked my ass on the aesthetically inventive bench at the exhibit’s end.
I also get really, really tired going through museums. By the time I’m done with a museum, no matter how big or small, I could snooze for days. My Mom marks this up to the emotional experience of engaging w/art. That might be it, or it could be that I’ve counted the floor boards 396 times over before Matisse spat my parents out of his exhibit. My Dad claims it’s much more to do w/the act of “shuffling”. “Shuffling is an unnatural motion and, in the long run, requires more energy than most are prepared for,” he says. Tell that to Curly.
So what’s there to do at a museum when no one busts as fast a move through as you? For me, it’s people watching time!!! There’s always the gaggle of unruly school children, all in uniform picking at their noses and each other and really not giving too much of a shit about what the guide is saying. There’s the husband who’s been dragged there (or, if he’s from Texas, he’s been drug – BTW, this guy asks a good question: Is George W. Bush dumber than a 5th Grader?). There’s the pretentious I-majored-in-art-history husband dude (what is up w/these people btw, cuz they’re in every museum, they’re nearly always men and they are always tedious) who enjoys pontificating so everyone in the rome can hear him wax poetic about Rothko’s deep emotional symbolism tumultuously expressed in the frenzied paint applications to ensnare the meaningless materialistic machinations of our steel-drawn-and-quartered culture. Someday I’m going to push a Rodin over on one of these jackasses.
What people are wearing is always fun. The older couples (parents included) are comfortable and wear clothes to accommodate their wise recognition of the practical. Others, however, go big for eccentric. Funky eyewear is key among this constituency. Billowing clothes – aka smocks – in bold, pastel colors, or earth tones is also at the top of the menu. Huge, untidey hair that could be colonized by Liliputians, the smell of cinnamon incense and maybe a portable tom tom drum are all must-haves for these folks.
Aside from people watching museums can be the ultimate relationship tester. My college girlfriend hated museums. Woe be to me because I waited two years before we hit a museum together. It took her a mere three rooms before she collapsed wailing to the gods that her legs couldn’t take another step. She left me to negotiate my way through the remaining 457 rooms. When I lived in NYC I took a girl I dated to the Museum of Natural History. Midway through the rodent exhibit – with wolverines, flying squirrels, lemurs and other wee fierce creatures saluting us behind thick museum glass, each perfectly preserved for posterity in their ferocious taxidermied glory – when, undoubtedly experiencing a moment of inspiration, this girl turned to me and suggested I get her a mink coat for Christmas. Dude… 1958 called it wants both its fashion and laissez faire ethics back.
I knew the moment my grad school girlfriend and I clicked when we hit the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge, UK together (this time it was early in the relationship). We both moved in lock-step at an engaging but efficient clip, (about a two minutes max per room). Only the medieval armor and weaponry room stayed me more than it did her, but I’m a dude, so when it comes to weapon and armour fascination i am blameless (btw, this kid’s got the right idea, bow down in reverence to cool medieval kick-ass weapons). “Museum date” test passed, that girlfriend ultimately ended up becoming my wife.
If you hit a museum and your date shows up wearing a pastel moo moo, time to moo moo moove on. If, upon entering the Warhol room, your date pulls out a pocket Pop Art guide and proceeds to pop off about 1960s aesthetic and cultural enlightenment, it’s time to hide behind the Henry Moore. Anyway, trust me, early dates at museums are a great way for figuring out your comparability quotient.
As I’m heading to England this week, and obviously have museums on my mind, here’s my top 10 for the best well-known museums of all time:
1. Sir John Soane’s Museum – It’s small, manageable and packed w/cool shit. Soane’s knew how to make the most of his tight London quarters; there’s so much looted stuff in here that you can keep coming back again and again and still find new things hiding in the corners.
2. Museo Del Prado – This is a bit of a rambling, poorly designed, huge museum in Madrid, BUT, it houses the best works by my favorite artist, so to me, it rocks its way up to # 2.
3. The Whitney Museum – No trip to NYC is truly complete w/out hitting this gem. Its exhibits are always fresh and unique and achieve what all great museums strive to achieve: get you thinking.
4. The Metropolitan Museum of Art – A great all around museum that although daunting, really endeavors to provide the patron w/an all around interactive experience.
5. The National Portrait Gallery – As strange as this one might sound to be in my top ten, art is about people and nothing satisfies this more than the genre of the portrait. Whether it’s the death mask of your favorite romantic poet, or a guy who looks exactly like your Dad, the NPG forces you to face more than what you’d expect.
6. The MOMA – Best collection of modern art in the world. Period.
7. The Musee D’Orsay – Despite having to deal w/the French, the combination of the best impressionist collection in the world in an innovative space (train-station turned museum) makes this an easy way to spend an afternoon.
8. The Tate Modern – Although a bit overwhelming and clunky, the 4 story curly slides for kids and adults alike really made my visit worth it.
9. Galleria dell’Accademia – Not as large, or as popular as the Uffizi, this museum houses the best collection of Michelangelo’s sculptures (including that young sling shot badass). People heading here can also avoid the Uffizi’s long line and 2 hour wait (besides, most of the painting in the Uffizi look like this).
10. The De Young – This mainly makes it on here b/c I need a local plug, and also b/c I think the concept, design and layout are amazing. Although imposing in the middle of a park, it certainly is a masterpiece of architecture with significant consideration given to how unify the building w/its surroundings over time. The collection leaves a bit to be desired and it doesn’t seem to have found a cohesive narrative yet, but it’s still early days for a revised and revitalized San Francisco staple.
Posted in Cambridge, Culture, Hieronymus Bosch, Museums, Rodin, Rothko